Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)

Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) are dangerous forms of oxygen molecules generated by UV rays and pollution. They attack and react with stable molecules within skin cells, causing irreversible damage to the cell, triggering wrinkles and lessening skin’s natural ability to repair itself. They form as a natural by- product of the normal metabolism of oxygen.

During times of environmental stress, ROS levels can increase dramatically, causing significant damage to cell structures. This is known as oxidative stress, which is the major cause of degenerative disorders including ageing and disease. Studies have shown that UV-induced damage to the skin is in part caused by Reactive Oxygen Species. Lipid peroxidation also results from ROS damage to cell membranes, leading to premature ageing, skin cancer and cell death. Matr

Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs)

Metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes activated by UV exposure or inflammation. They contribute to the breakdown of existing collagen while inhibiting the formation of new collagen.

The formation of MMPs may be stimulated by internal growth factors and inflammatory modulators, as well as exposure to UV radiation. Within hours of UV exposure, the MMP genes are activated, resulting in the biosynthesis of collagenase and other MMPs. Because collagenase degrades existing collagen and inhibits the formation of new collagen, long-term elevation results in disorganization and clumping of skin cells – key characteristics of photoaged skin.

Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs)

The same glucose that provides energy for our cells can react with proteins (such as collagen), resulting in the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs), which lead to wrinkles, inflammation, inhibited skin cell growth and accelerated ageing. Why is this so important? Because we now know that inflammation is the catalyst critical to the ageing process and many diseases. For example, diabetics have characteristically high levels of sugar in their blood and suffer from numerous health issues (including cataracts, atherosclerosis, etc.), which emanate from the formation of AGEs in the body. This is not restricted to diabetes; muscle weakness, heart disease and many diseases of the brain are associated with glycation. Scientists now believe that reducing glycation is a means of slowing the ageing process and disease formation.

Where to start?

You can treat the signs of skin ageing you see, and the triggers behind skin ageing before they start! Reveal your customized AGE Smart® regimen by coming in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis to find out which Dermalogica products will best suite your skin.

What are the top three causes of dry, dehydrated skin?

Intrinsic Ageing

Intrinsic ageing is the normal process of physical change over time that’s more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced ageing is known as premature ageing.) Activity of the sebaceous glands responsible for oil secretions tend to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators decline over the years. Ageing also may cause blood flow to the skin to decrease, causing a drop in sebum production.

Weather / Environmental Elements

Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from skin, which is why sunburnt skin requires more moisturization than unexposed areas. Likewise, cold winds, air conditioning units, forced air heating and low temperatures can also dry out skin, contributing to premature ageing.

Lifestyle

The trend of fat-free diets can deprive our bodies of skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). This deficiency can result in chronic itching, dryness, scaling, thinning and can lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation). Excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.

Where to start?

Coming in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis will reveal the top Dermalogica products to revive, rehydrate, moisturize and protect your skin.

Immunogenic Inflammation

Triggered by the immune system, skin inflammation is caused by a foreign substance such as pollen or artificial fragrances.

Neurogenic Inflammation

Triggered by the nervous system, sensitized or inflamed skin may be the result of the environment, chemicals or physical and emotional stress. (Figure 1.)

Both immunogenic and neurogenic inflammation can yield the same redness, itching and swelling that result when the body is injured or irritated. In the end, it is the combination of genetic susceptibility, immune disruption, nerve activity and epidermal barrier function that contributes to skin sensitivity and inflammation.

Loss of Protective Barrier

Excess exfoliation, exposure to soap and water, even psychological stress can compromise the skin’s protective barrier, lowering tolerance against potential stressors resulting in sensitization and irritation. (Figure 2.)

Where to start?

Dermalogica’s UltraCalming™ system is the first to deliver simultaneous relief from all three sensitive and sensitized skin triggers. Before purchasing any products, it is important to come in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis in order to find out which Dermalogica products will best suite your skin.

Causes of Hyperpigmentation: UV Exposure

In addition to the development of an overall tan, exposure to UV light may also stimulate hyperpigmentation in specific spots on the hands, face and neck. These dark spots are often referred to as age spots or liver spots (lentigines), usually become evident in our early forties, and become increasingly more evident as we age. By the time we reach 60 years old, 90% of all individuals will have sun-induced age spots, known as lentigines.

These spots, more than anything else, give away a person’s age. Age spots are caused by skin’s continued exposure to the sun over many years, and unlike freckles, they do not fade in winter. (Freckles, also known as ephilides, are flat spots that are red or brown, typically appear during the summer months and fade in winter. They are most often found in individuals with fair skin and are generally a genetic trait.)

Causes of Hyperpigmentation: Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

In addition to genetics and environmental influences, skin pigmentation is effected by endocrine (hormonal) factors, usage of prescription drugs, stress, topically-applied products including cosmetics, and wound healing to the skin tissue. The latter incidence gives rise to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), a phenomenon that is more problematic for individuals with darker skin color. PIH stems from the melanocytes exaggerated response to injury, however slight, which results in an increased or abnormal distribution of melanin in the tissues.

Causes of Hyperpigmentation: Melasma

Hormonally induced pigmentation manifests itself in various forms, such as hyperpigmentation spots and melasma, better known as the mask of pregnancy. Melasma affects primarily women of child-bearing age. Some studies suggest that up to 75% of women may develop melasma during pregnancy and about 33% of women on birth control pills also complain of this problem. It is more prevalent in women with darker skin color and it is most commonly seen in areas that are exposed to sunlight.

Some scientists say UV exposure seems to be a requirement for melasma to develop, which may account for the fact that it is less noticeable in winter months when UV exposure is lower. The most common pattern for melisma is centrofacial: on the chin, upper lip, cheeks, nose, and forehead. To a lesser extent, melasma is seen on the cheeks and nose, or on the jawline.

The condition may persist up to 5 years after pregnancy or stopping of birth control pills. Unfortunately, once melasma manifests in skin, chances of having it again increase.

Where to start?

Experience brighter, more luminous skin with ChromaWhite TRx®. Before purchasing any products, it is important to come in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis in order to find out which Dermalogica products will best suite your skin.

What causes oily skin?

Sebum (oil) production is controlled by androgen hormones. Oils help lubricate skin, protecting it from environmental assaults (such as extreme weather conditions). Excess androgen hormones (due to puberty, monthly cycles or menopause) can trigger sebaceous (oil) glands to produce too much oil. This excess oil spills onto the skin’s surface, creating a slick, greasy appearance. This excess oil acts as a binder, holding on to dead skin cells meant to be shed.

What role does oily skin play in the development of breakouts?

While those with oily skin don’t necessarily experience breakouts, oily skin is one of the triggers behind the development of acne.

Because excess oils act as a binder, skin cells are not properly shed. The follicle becomes clogged with a mixture of oil and dead skin cells, prohibiting oxygen from entering. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, which leads to swelling, redness and inflammation around the follicle, resulting in acne.

The oily skin myth...

Many believe stripping skin with harsh, drying ingredients (such as alcohol) can control excess oils. Ironically, this can cause skin to produce even more oil than before, as the sebaceous glands go into overdrive in order to replace what has been lost! For those who self-treat with these products, skin is often left dehydrated, irritated and sensitized.

A balanced skin care regimen that consists of oil-control and proper hydration will bring skin into balance. 

Where to start?

Ready to take control of congestion and shine for healthier skin? Make an appointment for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis now and find out which Dermalogica products are right for you.

While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.

When overactive sebaceous glands produce too much oil, this oil spills onto the skin’s surface, creating a slick, greasy appearance. This excess oil acts as a binder, holding on to dead skin cells that were meant to be shed. The follicle becomes clogged with a mixture of oil and dead skin cells, prohibiting oxygen from entering. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, which leads to the swelling, redness and inflammation around the follicle, resulting in acne.

To successfully treat, clear and prevent acne, the cascade of events leading to acne development must be controlled: we must regulate the sebaceous glands, promote exfoliation to help shed dead skin cells from the surface, kill bacteria and soothe inflammation.

Where to start?

The MediBac Clearing® system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is clearer and healthier. Before purchasing any products, it is important to come in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis in order to find out which Dermalogica products will best suite your skin. 

What happens when skin is shaved?

Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier iscompromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition.

Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.

Continued irritation or assault causing. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see thesigns of premature ageing on the skin.

To help minimise nicks, cuts and redness associated with shaving, Dermalogica has created a customized, 3-step regimen: Pre-Shave to cleanse skin, soften thebeard, and minimise irritation; Shave to cushion skin and reduce razor drag; Post-Shave to refresh, hydrate, help skin recover and shield against ingrown and premature ageing.

Where to start?

Ready for a great shave, and your healthiest skin daily? Come in for your FREE face mapping® skin analysis to find the 3-step system that’s right for your skin condition and beard type.